blackdog
Learned Hand
Reged: 01/11/05
Posts: 1334
Loc: Illinois
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While I've got the rear wheel off replacing the tire, I'm a-wondering if I should go ahead and replace the cush drive. I'm at a bit less than 13K. And if'n I go this route, would the TBS model really be that much better, and how much harder is it to get it properly placed?
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"WOW... What a Ride!"
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Gregger
Oil Expert
Reged: 04/07/07
Posts: 2372
Loc: Timmins, Ontario
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I've heard nothing but good news for the TBS install.
I for one inserted equal pieces of a belt on the flat side of every section of the original cush drive over 10,000 kms ago with no problems. Tightened my final drive right up. The only slack I have is in the chain which is normal.
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03 Bonneville America
69 BSA Firebird Scrambler
73 Yamaha TX 750
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roadworthy
Old Hand
Reged: 08/29/07
Posts: 8887
Loc: St Louis MO
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It's a noticeable difference, and for the better. I would replace it if I were in your place.
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I stopped fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.
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Blackwind
Oil Expert
Reged: 01/11/05
Posts: 2054
Loc: Houston
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I don't get it. I did replace mine, with the TBS part, on my 4th or 5th rear tire and/or chain change. Really didn't know why, other than it sounded like the thing to do from others here.
I have my tires changed at a small local independent shop that works on mostly Jap bikes, and older ones at that. Clean shop, has good, steady business, been in business 20 years, with the owner, and two mechanics. I trust them, and they take care of me.
They thought I was crazy for changing it, and could not fault my stock rubber before the change, or after we took it out. And I never could tell a bit of difference. Maybe there was some slack in there, and nobody ever showed me, but I never once thought anything was wrong before I changed it.
That might be one of the less effective or noticeable "upgrades" I've done. 
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Keith
Houston
Ridin'Texas
'04 Speedmaster
AI removed, Pingle, UNI Filter, 1 shim, straight-through slash-cut TORs, 45 slow jets, 140 mains, 2.0 turns, 16/42 final drive, Nology Coils
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The_Dog33
Fe Butt
Reged: 02/01/07
Posts: 17007
Loc: NE PA USA
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I still have the one that came with my bike and have almost 30,000 on it.
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I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains.
Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
some shots of our bikes
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jim5968
Adjunct
Reged: 07/08/09
Posts: 127
Loc: Ithaca, NY
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Cush Drive Check: With your back wheel on the ground (bike on side stand) try moving rear sprocket back and forth - if there is any significant play, you definitely need a new rubber. My '05 SM was making terrible metallic clashing noises upon acceleration at 21, 000 mi. I thought my clutch or transmission was self-destructing!
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Hot Pipes
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Stacka
Oil Expert
Reged: 12/19/06
Posts: 2146
Loc: Canberra Australian Capital Te...
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I replaced my cush at 20K svc with the TBS and it tightened up the rear wheel big time.
The biggest difference I noticed was how easy it was to find neutral from standing still. You know, you're in first gear and go to put it in neutral and it goes into second. Annoying when it happens a couple of times.
Not with the TBS. Smooth as. I did it myself too and if you have a rubber hammer it's tight but not hard to squeeze in.
Trust those who have already done it, it is worth the effort and the little bit of extra cash. 
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Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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FriarJohn
"Lighten up, Francis."
Reged: 01/11/05
Posts: 18825
Loc: East Helena, Montana
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My stocker lasted into the 40k's with innertube shims. Won't ever do that again...
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BA.com Caretaker | Friarsride | jb.com
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CDL
Member
Reged: 10/30/11
Posts: 67
Loc: NY USA
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Explain what cush drive is and why it's there?
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Stacka
Oil Expert
Reged: 12/19/06
Posts: 2146
Loc: Canberra Australian Capital Te...
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Hi Charles,
I did a quick google search and found this
We've been talking about the TBS cush drives for some years now so just keep in mind, the majority of stuff we talk about has already been mentioned in past threads.
What I'm getting at is, you'll find if you do a quick search yourself, you'll generally be able to find the answer to most questions and if not, then ask us here.
Anyway, if you haven't already, just scroll down and you'll see part no 15. Yes, it's an odd looking rubber part that fits inside the hub.
As to your question why is it there? Well I could bumble my way round an answer but I believe it's design allows some give in the wheel when taking off and acceleration etc. I'm only having a stab at it but maybe one of our more technical members can give a better answer than me, or perhaps it was already asked in the thread I included. 
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Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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